Patterns, Techniques, Articles, Blogs, and other resources to learn how to sew
Cheri from I Am Momma Hear Me Roar uses a scrap of fabric, a button, and a length of crocheted trim to dress up a plain tee. I love the asymmetry of the bow on just one shoulder! Go to the tutorial.
[photo from I Am Momma Hear Me Roar]
[tags]sewing, tutorial, update, tee, t-shirt, refashion, bow, shoulder[/tags]
Sewing a shirt collar is one of those jobs that can make even confident sewists suddenly find urgent reasons to reorganise the button tin. It looks simple enough sitting there on the pattern sheet, but once you add curves, collar points, interfacing, topstitching, and that fiddly collar stand, things can get a little… character-building.
The good news? A neat shirt collar is absolutely achievable, even if you are still building your handmade wardrobe skills. Like many sewing techniques, it mostly comes down to pressing, marking carefully, trimming bulk, and not rushing the awkward bits. I know, I know — easier said than done when the collar stand is trying to twist itself into a fabric pretzel.
This tutorial walks through the traditional method for sewing a shirt collar with a collar stand, the kind you’ll see on button-up shirts, shirt dresses, pajama tops, blouses, and classic tailored garments. It is especially useful if you are sewing your first collared shirt and want the collar to sit nicely without puckers, lumpy corners, or one collar point looking like it had a long night.
If you are still getting comfortable with sewing curves and small garment details, you may also like this older CraftGossip post on how to draft a collar and collar stand. And if you love collar details but don’t want to commit to a full shirt just yet, this stand-alone shirt collar pattern is a fun little practice project.
A shirt collar is usually made from two main parts:
The collar is the folded piece that sits around the neck and forms the visible collar points.
The collar stand is the curved band that sits between the shirt neckline and the collar. It helps the collar stand up properly and gives a button-up shirt that crisp, finished shape.
Some simple collars are sewn flat without a stand, but if you are making a traditional button-down shirt, shirt dress, or tailored blouse, you will usually be working with both collar pieces and collar stand pieces.
For this tutorial, you will need:
A good iron is honestly one of the best shirtmaking tools you can own. Sewing the seam is only half the job — the pressing is where the collar starts to look polished. If you are stocking up on sewing basics, Amazon is handy for things like fusible interfacing, point turners, seam gauges, and edge stitch feet. For beautiful cotton shirting or quilting cottons that behave nicely under the needle, Fat Quarter Shop and Connecting Threads are also lovely places to browse fabric bundles and basic sewing notions.
If this is your first shirt collar, choose a fabric that presses well and does not wiggle too much.
Good beginner-friendly choices include:
Avoid slippery rayon, silk, satin, or very thick flannel for your first attempt. They are not impossible, but they will make every little curve and point more dramatic than necessary. Save the dramatic fabric for when you’ve had a cup of tea and one successful collar under your belt.
Cut your collar and collar stand pieces accurately. A tiny wobble in the cutting stage can show up later when you are trying to match collar points or align the stand to the shirt neckline.
Most shirt patterns will include:
Usually, the top collar and outer collar stand are interfaced. Some patterns interface different pieces, so always check your own pattern instructions first.
Fuse the interfacing smoothly to the wrong side of the required pieces. Let the pieces cool flat before moving them. This helps prevent bubbling or shifting.
If your fabric is bulky, trim the interfacing just inside the seam allowance before fusing. This reduces thickness in the seams and gives a softer, cleaner collar edge.
Place the top collar and under collar right sides together.
Pin around the outer edges, matching the collar points and centre back. Leave the neckline edge open.
Sew around the collar using your pattern’s seam allowance. When you reach each collar point, shorten your stitch length slightly and pivot carefully.
For sharper collar points, try sewing one tiny stitch diagonally across the point instead of making a harsh pivot. This gives the seam allowance somewhere to fold inside the point and can help prevent that little bulky nub that loves to appear exactly where everyone will see it.
Trim the seam allowance around the collar, grading one layer slightly narrower than the other. This reduces bulk and helps the seam roll neatly to the underside.
At the collar points, trim carefully but do not cut too close to the stitching. If you are working with lightweight fabric, you can fold the corner seam allowance rather than chopping it right off. This can make the point stronger and less likely to poke through.
Turn the collar right side out.
Use a point turner, blunt knitting needle, or the rounded end of a small crochet hook to gently shape the corners. Do not jab at them like you’re trying to win a prize. Gentle persuasion is the key.
Press the collar well, rolling the seam very slightly toward the under collar so the seam line does not show from the top.
Topstitch around the outer collar edge if your pattern calls for it, or if you want that classic shirtmaking look.
For neat topstitching:
An edge stitch foot can make this step much easier. It is one of those little sewing machine feet that feels unnecessary until you use it once and then wonder why you made life so hard for yourself.
Place one collar stand right side up.
Position the finished collar on top of it, matching the centre back notches and any pattern markings. The raw neckline edge of the collar should line up with the raw upper edge of the collar stand.
Place the second collar stand on top, right side down, so the collar is sandwiched between the two stand pieces.
The collar points should be tucked safely inside, away from the curved ends of the stand.
Pin carefully.
This is a good moment to check that the collar is centred. If one collar point is peeking out farther than the other before you sew, it will almost certainly still be doing that after you sew. Ask me how I know.
Sew around the upper curved edge of the collar stand, attaching the collar between the two stand pieces.
Use a shorter stitch length around the curves for smoother stitching.
Take your time around the ends of the stand. These curved ends are what frame the front neckline, so neat stitching here makes a big difference.
Trim and grade the seam allowance around the stand. Instead of clipping lots of little notches into the curve, trim the seam allowance close to the stitching so it turns smoothly without creating bulky flaps inside the stand.
Turn the collar stand right side out and press well.
Before attaching the collar stand, staystitch the shirt neckline just inside the seam allowance.
This helps stop the neckline from stretching out while you work. Necklines are cut on curves and partial bias areas, so they can grow if handled too much.
Clip into the neckline curve up to, but not through, the staystitching. This allows the neckline to open out enough to match the collar stand.
With right sides together, pin the outer collar stand to the shirt neckline.
Match:
Only sew the outer collar stand to the shirt at this stage. Keep the inner collar stand free.
Stitch slowly around the neckline using your pattern seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance up toward the collar stand.
Turn the raw edge of the inner collar stand under along the seam allowance.
Press it neatly so the folded edge just covers the stitching line on the inside of the neckline.
You can hold this in place with pins, sewing clips, hand basting, a fabric glue stick, or wash-away sewing tape.
For beginners, I highly recommend basting this section by hand or using wash-away tape. Pins can shift right when you are topstitching, and there is nothing quite like discovering the inside stand has wandered off after you’ve sewn a beautifully straight line on the outside. Sewing does like to keep us humble.
Topstitch around the collar stand from the outside of the shirt, catching the folded inner stand on the inside.
Start at the centre back or one front edge, depending on your pattern and confidence level. Stitch close to the edge, keeping your line even.
If you are nervous about catching the inside stand, you can stitch from the inside instead. The outside may be slightly less perfect, but the inside edge will be secured neatly. Choose the method that gives you the cleanest result for the way the shirt will be worn.
Press the whole collar and stand again.
This usually comes from bulky seam allowances inside the point. Trim and grade carefully, use a tiny diagonal stitch across the point, and turn gently with a point turner.
The neckline may not have been clipped enough, or the stand may have stretched while sewing. Staystitching and careful clipping help the neckline curve sit smoothly.
This is very common. Baste or glue baste the inner stand before topstitching. You can also topstitch from the inside if that gives you better control.
Check the collar before attaching it to the stand. If the points are uneven, unpick and correct before moving on. Once the collar is sewn into the stand, it is much more annoying to fix.
Your interfacing may be too heavy for your fabric. For lightweight shirts, use lightweight fusible interfacing and test on a scrap first.
Press after every step. It sounds fussy, but it is the difference between homemade-in-a-good-way and homemade-in-a-“what happened here?” way.
Use a fresh needle, especially for tightly woven cotton shirting.
Mark your seam allowance around the curved ends of the stand before sewing.
Trim bulk gradually rather than hacking away too much at once.
Use matching thread for your first few collars. Contrast topstitching is gorgeous, but it also likes to announce every wobble.
Practise on scrap fabric before sewing your main shirt. A mini collar sample is a brilliant confidence builder.
If you are building your sewing skills, you may also enjoy browsing the CraftGossip sewing archives for more beginner-friendly sewing tutorials, garment sewing ideas, and quick projects. And if you like small projects that build confidence, this stand-alone collar tutorial is a clever way to practise collar construction without committing to an entire shirt.
A shirt collar is one of those sewing details that makes a handmade garment feel properly finished. Once you understand how the collar, stand, neckline, pressing, and topstitching all work together, the whole process becomes much less mysterious.
Will your first collar be perfect? Maybe. Maybe not. But it will teach you a lot. And honestly, most people are not inspecting your collar points while you are wearing the shirt. They are far more likely to say, “You made that?” — which is still one of the best compliments a sewist can get.
So take your time, press more than you think you need to, and don’t be afraid to unpick a tiny section if it means getting a cleaner finish. That is not failure. That is shirtmaking.