DIY sewing tutorial: Ear savers for fabric masks, 3 ways

Bubble skirts are back, and this time they are not being saved for flower girls, dance costumes or the more adventurous corners of our wardrobes.

The modern bubble hem skirt—also called a puffball skirt—can be soft and wearable, especially when you choose the right fabric and control the amount of gathering. Think gentle rounded volume rather than an enormous fabric balloon following you through the supermarket.

This easy adult bubble skirt tutorial does not require a commercial sewing pattern. The skirt is drafted from your own hip and length measurements, then finished with a comfortable elastic waistband.

The secret is the lining. The outer skirt is cut both wider and longer than the lining, then gathered to it at the lower edge. The extra fabric rolls underneath and creates that distinctive rounded bubble hem.

You can make the finished skirt as a mini, knee-length or midi design, with anything from a subtle puff to full “big skirt energy.”

What Is a Bubble Hem Skirt?

A bubble hem skirt has an outer layer that folds underneath and attaches to a shorter lining.

The outer fabric is longer and usually wider than the lining. When the two lower edges are joined, the extra fabric gathers and rolls underneath, creating a soft, rounded hem.

You may also see this style described as:

• Bubble skirt
• Puffball skirt
• Balloon skirt
• Bubble hem mini skirt
• Voluminous gathered skirt
• Balloon hem skirt

Sewing CraftGossip has shared several older bubble-skirt ideas for children, including this easy bubble skirt for girls and a paper-bag waistband bubble skirt. This tutorial updates the idea with adult measurements, adjustable fullness and a separate elastic waistband.

Is This Bubble Skirt Beginner Friendly?

This is a confident-beginner sewing project.

You should be comfortable with:

• Sewing straight seams
• Finishing raw fabric edges
• Gathering fabric
• Attaching a waistband
• Making an elastic casing
• Matching quarter points
• Sewing lightweight lining fabric

There are no zips, buttons or complicated fitted pattern pieces.

The most important part is labelling the top and bottom edges before construction. Once you have two large fabric tubes and one of them has been turned inside out three times, they can begin to look suspiciously alike.

Choosing the Length and Fullness

Before buying fabric, decide whether you want a subtle everyday bubble or a more dramatic puffball shape.

Subtle Bubble Hem

Use an outer-skirt width approximately 1.5–1.75 times your hip measurement.

Add approximately 12–15 cm of extra outer length.

This creates a soft rounded hem without excessive volume around the hips.

Medium Bubble Hem

Use an outer-skirt width approximately 1.75–2 times your hip measurement.

Add approximately 18–22 cm of extra outer length.

This is a good starting point for a modern adult bubble skirt.

Dramatic Puffball Skirt

Use an outer-skirt width approximately 2–2.5 times your hip measurement.

Add approximately 25–35 cm of extra outer length.

This creates a much fuller silhouette and works best with lightweight fabric that holds its shape without becoming heavy.

Best Fabrics for a Bubble Hem Skirt

The fabric determines whether your skirt produces a soft puff, a crisp architectural shape or something that looks as though you have accidentally worn a duvet cover.

Cotton Poplin

Cotton poplin is one of the easiest options for beginners.

It is crisp enough to hold the bubble shape, easy to sew and available in plenty of prints and solid colours.

Cotton Lawn

Cotton lawn creates a softer, lighter bubble.

It works well for spring and summer skirts but may need a light lining because pale colours can be transparent.

Taffeta

Taffeta produces dramatic volume and a more structured, occasion-style skirt.

It can be slippery and may show pin marks, so use fine pins or sewing clips.

Linen Blend

A lightweight linen-viscose or linen-cotton blend creates relaxed volume with a slightly crumpled finish.

Pure heavy linen may create too much weight around the gathered hem.

Lightweight Denim or Chambray

Chambray and very lightweight denim can create a casual bubble skirt.

Avoid heavy jeans denim. Once gathered, lined and folded under, the hem can become extremely bulky.

Tencel or Viscose

These fabrics create a softer, more draped bubble.

The finished silhouette will be less structured, but it can feel more wearable if you are cautious about adding volume.

Fabrics to Avoid

Avoid:

• Heavy upholstery fabric
• Thick sweatshirt fleece
• Bulky boiled wool
• Very stiff vinyl
• Heavy corduroy
• Fabric with a one-way nap unless carefully planned
• Loose open-weave fabric that cannot support gathering

What Should You Use for the Lining?

Choose a lightweight, smooth lining that does not cling to tights or bunch around your legs.

Suitable options include:

• Cotton lawn
• Lightweight cotton voile
• Rayon lining
• Bemberg-style lining
• Lightweight polyester lining
• Anti-static skirt lining

The lining should be lighter and less bulky than the outer fabric.

A cotton lining is easier for beginners to control, while a slippery garment lining allows the skirt to move more freely over the body.

Supplies

• Outer skirt fabric
• Lightweight lining fabric
• Elastic, 25–40 mm wide
• Matching sewing thread
• Fabric scissors or rotary cutter
• Cutting mat and ruler
• Sewing machine
• Universal or microtex sewing-machine needle
• Overlocker, zigzag stitch or pinking shears for finishing seams
• Safety pin or elastic-threading tool
• Pins or sewing clips
• Measuring tape
• Fabric marker
• Iron and ironing board
• Optional lightweight fusible interfacing for the waistband
• Optional pocket fabric

A reliable rotary cutter, large self-healing cutting mat and clear quilting ruler make cutting these long rectangular pieces considerably easier. They are useful sewing-room basics rather than supplies you will use for one skirt and then abandon beside the bias-tape maker.

How Much Fabric Do You Need?

Fabric requirements depend on your measurements, the desired skirt length, fabric width and the amount of fullness.

For many adult knee-length skirts, allow approximately:

• 1.5–2.5 metres of outer fabric
• 1–1.5 metres of lining fabric
• Waist measurement plus approximately 10 cm of elastic

A dramatic midi version may require more.

Calculate your pattern pieces before purchasing fabric, particularly when using narrow fabric or a print that must be matched.

Take Your Measurements

Wear the type of undergarments or clothing you expect to wear beneath the skirt.

Measure:

Natural Waist

Measure around the point where you want the elastic waistband to sit.

Full Hip

Measure around the fullest part of your hips and bottom.

Keep the tape level and comfortably loose.

Finished Skirt Length

Measure from the lower edge of the planned waistband to where you want the visible bubble hem to finish.

This is the finished length rather than the cutting length of the outer fabric.

Write these measurements down. Trusting yourself to remember three numbers while walking from the mirror to the sewing table is how a knee-length skirt quietly becomes a mini.

Drafting the Bubble Skirt Pieces

This tutorial uses two rectangular outer-skirt panels, two lining panels and one waistband.

The formulas include 1.5 cm seam allowances unless otherwise stated.

Outer-Skirt Width

Choose your fullness multiplier.

For medium fullness:

Full hip measurement × 2

Divide that number by two to create a front panel and a back panel.

Add 3 cm to each panel for the two side seam allowances.

Example

Hip measurement: 105 cm

105 cm × 2 = 210 cm total outer width

210 cm ÷ 2 = 105 cm per panel

Add 3 cm seam allowance:

Cut two outer panels measuring 108 cm wide.

Outer-Skirt Length

Take your finished skirt length and add:

• 18–22 cm for a medium bubble
• 3 cm for upper and lower seam allowances

Example

Desired finished length: 55 cm

Extra bubble length: 20 cm

Seam allowance: 3 cm

Cut the outer panels 78 cm long.

Lining Width

The lining must fit comfortably over your hips but should not contain as much fullness as the outer skirt.

Use:

Full hip measurement × 1.15–1.25

Divide by two and add 3 cm to each panel for side seam allowances.

Use the lower multiplier for a straighter lining and the higher multiplier for more walking ease.

Example

Hip measurement: 105 cm

105 cm × 1.2 = 126 cm total lining width

126 cm ÷ 2 = 63 cm per panel

Add 3 cm seam allowance:

Cut two lining panels measuring 66 cm wide.

Lining Length

The lining controls the finished skirt length.

Use:

Desired finished length + 3 cm seam allowance

For a finished 55 cm skirt:

Cut the lining panels 58 cm long.

The lining will be pulled slightly upward when the bubble forms. When you are between two lengths, cut it a little longer. It is easier to shorten the skirt during fitting than negotiate with fabric you have already removed.

Drafting the Waistband

The finished waistband must stretch over your full hip measurement.

Waistband Length

Use:

Full hip measurement + 5 cm ease + 3 cm seam allowance

For a 105 cm hip:

105 cm + 5 cm + 3 cm = 113 cm

Waistband Width

Use:

Twice the elastic width + 4 cm

For 30 mm elastic:

6 cm + 4 cm = 10 cm

Cut one waistband strip measuring 113 cm × 10 cm.

When your fabric is not wide enough, join two shorter strips and position the seams at the side seams.

For lightweight fabric, apply a narrow strip of lightweight interfacing to the outer half of the waistband. Do not interface the entire casing heavily or it may prevent the elastic from stretching comfortably.

Cutting the Fabric

Cut:

• Two outer-skirt rectangles
• Two lining rectangles
• One waistband strip
• Optional pocket pieces

Mark the top edge of each piece with a removable fabric marker or a small notch inside the seam allowance.

When your fabric has a directional print, make sure both outer panels face the same way.

Prewash and press washable fabric before cutting. Different fabrics can shrink at different rates, and the lined bubble construction does not respond kindly when one layer decides to become noticeably shorter after its first wash.

Optional Side-Seam Pockets

Pockets can be added, but they need to be handled carefully so they do not drag the bubble hem downward.

Use lightweight pocket fabric and attach the pockets to the outer skirt only.

Position the pocket openings approximately 8–10 cm below the top raw edge, allowing for the waistband seam.

Sew the pocket pieces to the side seams before assembling the outer-skirt tube.

After the skirt is gathered, tack the upper pocket bags to the waistband seam allowance. This helps support the weight of anything you place inside.

Keep pocket contents light. A phone, keys and several handfuls of mysterious handbag coins may pull the bubble out of shape.

For a simpler pocket option, add small patch pockets to the front before sewing the side seams.

How to Sew the Bubble Hem Skirt

Step 1: Sew the Outer-Skirt Side Seams

Place the two outer panels right sides together.

Pin or clip the side edges.

Sew both side seams using a 1.5 cm seam allowance.

Finish the raw edges with an overlocker, zigzag stitch or pinking shears.

Press the seams open or towards the back.

When adding side-seam pockets, complete the pockets as you sew the side seams.

You now have one large outer-skirt tube.

Step 2: Sew the Lining Side Seams

Place the two lining panels right sides together.

Sew both side seams using a 1.5 cm seam allowance.

Finish the raw edges and press the seams.

You now have a smaller lining tube.

Step 3: Mark the Quarter Points

Fold the lower edge of the outer skirt so the side seams meet.

Mark the centre front and centre back.

Repeat with the lower edge of the lining.

You should now have four evenly spaced quarter marks on each lower edge:

• Centre front
• Right side seam
• Centre back
• Left side seam

Quarter marks help distribute the gathers evenly and prevent all the fullness from drifting towards one side.

Step 4: Sew Gathering Stitches Along the Outer Hem

Set the sewing machine to its longest straight stitch.

Sew two parallel rows of gathering stitches around the lower edge of the outer skirt.

Place one row approximately 8 mm from the raw edge and the second approximately 13 mm from the edge.

Do not backstitch.

Leave long thread tails at the beginning and end.

Two gathering rows create neater, more controllable gathers than one row and make it less likely that the thread will snap halfway through.

Step 5: Place the Outer Skirt Inside the Lining

Turn the outer skirt right side out.

Turn the lining wrong side out.

Slide the outer skirt inside the lining.

The right sides of the outer fabric and lining should now face each other at the lower edges.

Match the side seams and quarter marks.

The outer edge will be considerably wider than the lining edge.

Step 6: Gather the Outer Hem to Fit the Lining

Pull the bobbin threads gently to gather the lower edge of the outer skirt.

Distribute the gathers between each set of quarter marks.

Continue adjusting until the gathered outer edge matches the lower lining edge exactly.

Pin or clip the edges together, placing pins fairly close together.

Check that the gathers are even and that neither fabric tube is twisted.

Step 7: Sew the Lower Edges Together

Return the machine to a standard stitch length.

Sew around the lower edge using a 1.5 cm seam allowance.

Keep the gathers facing upward as they pass under the presser foot and smooth them gently with a stiletto or seam ripper tip.

Do not push your fingers close to the needle.

Sew slowly over bulky gathered areas.

Step 8: Finish and Grade the Hem Seam

Finish the joined raw edges together with an overlocker or zigzag stitch.

When the outer fabric is bulky, trim or grade the seam allowance carefully to reduce thickness.

Do not trim so close that the gathering stitches or construction seam are weakened.

Press the seam allowance towards the lining using a suitable iron temperature.

Step 9: Turn the Skirt Right Side Out

Pull the lining through the open waist edge.

Arrange the lining inside the outer skirt.

The extra outer length should begin folding underneath, forming the bubble hem.

Hold the skirt by its upper edge and shake it gently so the fabric settles.

Smooth the lining downward inside the skirt.

The lower seam should roll towards the inside and remain hidden.

Step 10: Check the Bubble Shape

Place the skirt on a dress form or try it on carefully while holding the upper edge.

Check:

• Finished length
• Distribution of the lower gathers
• Fullness around the hips
• Whether the lining is twisting
• Whether the bubble looks even from front and back

When one area hangs lower, redistribute the fabric along the lower seam.

When the whole skirt is too long, shorten it from the upper edge rather than interfering with the completed bubble hem.

Joining the Waist Edges

Step 11: Match the Upper Edges

Smooth the lining inside the outer skirt.

Match the side seams and upper raw edges.

Pin the layers together at the side seams, centre front and centre back.

Baste the lining and outer fabric together approximately 8 mm from the raw edge.

Treat the two layers as one from this point onward.

Step 12: Gather the Waist Edge

Sew two rows of long gathering stitches around the upper edge through both layers.

Leave long thread tails.

The combined skirt waist now needs to gather to the finished waistband length.

Keep the upper gathers lighter and flatter than the bubble-hem gathers to avoid unnecessary bulk around the waist.

Sewing the Elastic Waistband

Step 13: Sew the Waistband Ring

Fold the waistband strip in half with the short ends right sides together.

Sew the short ends using a 1.5 cm seam allowance.

Press the seam open.

You now have a waistband ring.

Mark the ring into four equal sections.

Step 14: Attach the Waistband to the Skirt

Place the waistband around the outside of the skirt with right sides together.

Match the waistband seam to one skirt side seam and match all four quarter points.

Pull the gathering threads until the skirt waist fits the waistband.

Distribute the gathers evenly.

Pin or clip securely.

Sew around the waistband using a 1.5 cm seam allowance.

Finish the joined raw edges if desired, taking care not to add excessive bulk.

Press the seam allowances upward into the waistband.

Step 15: Form the Elastic Casing

Press the remaining raw waistband edge 1.5 cm towards the wrong side.

Fold the waistband over the seam allowance towards the inside of the skirt.

The folded edge should cover the original waistband stitching line.

Pin or clip it in place.

From the right side, stitch in the ditch beside the waistband seam, catching the folded edge on the inside.

Leave an opening approximately 5 cm wide for inserting the elastic.

Alternatively, edge-stitch the folded inner edge from inside the skirt when that gives you better control.

Measuring the Elastic

Wrap the elastic around your waist where the skirt will sit.

Adjust it until it feels secure but comfortable.

A common starting point is:

Waist measurement minus 2.5–5 cm

The correct amount depends on the firmness and stretch of the elastic.

Add approximately 2.5 cm for overlapping the elastic ends.

Do not rely entirely on a formula. Elastic varies wildly. Some behaves beautifully, while some seems to have been designed for restraining garden furniture during a cyclone.

Inserting the Elastic

Step 16: Thread the Elastic

Attach a safety pin or elastic-threading tool to one end of the elastic.

Thread it through the waistband casing.

Secure the opposite end temporarily so it does not disappear into the casing.

Keep the elastic flat and untwisted.

Step 17: Join the Elastic Ends

Overlap the elastic ends by approximately 2.5 cm.

Try on the skirt before stitching the elastic permanently.

Adjust the length when necessary.

Sew the overlapped elastic securely using a box with a cross or several rows of zigzag stitching.

Pull the waistband gently so the elastic disappears inside the casing.

Step 18: Close the Waistband Opening

Stitch the casing opening closed.

Stretch the waistband several times to distribute the gathers evenly.

Optional: Stitch vertically through the waistband at each side seam. This anchors the elastic and helps prevent it twisting inside the casing.

Pressing the Finished Skirt

Press the waistband and side seams carefully.

Avoid crushing the bubble hem flat.

Use steam from a short distance or place the skirt over a tailor’s ham when lightly pressing the rounded lower edge.

Allow the skirt to cool while hanging.

When using taffeta or synthetic fabric, test the iron temperature on a scrap first.

How to Make the Bubble More Dramatic

For a fuller puffball shape:

• Increase the outer-skirt width
• Add more outer-skirt length
• Use crisp poplin, organza or taffeta
• Make the lining slightly narrower
• Add a layer of lightweight organza between the outer and lining
• Use several small tucks around the inner lower seam

Do not add large amounts of width and length at the same time without testing. That can create a very bulky skirt, particularly around the upper thighs.

How to Make the Bubble More Subtle

For a softer, easier-to-wear version:

• Use 1.5–1.75 times the hip measurement for the outer width
• Add only 12–15 cm of extra outer length
• Choose viscose, Tencel or cotton lawn
• Keep the lining circumference closer to the outer circumference
• Make a knee-length or midi skirt rather than a very short mini
• Use small, evenly spaced gathers

This version works well with simple T-shirts, fine knitwear and cropped jackets.

Adding a Fitted Waistband Instead of Elastic

A fitted waistband creates a more tailored finish but requires an opening.

You will need to:

• Add a centre-back or side-seam zip
• Draft the waistband to your actual waist measurement
• Add interfacing
• Include a button, hook or overlap closure
• Make sure both the lining and outer skirt open at the zip

This is better suited to intermediate sewists.

The elastic-waist version is easier to fit and much more forgiving after lunch.

Can You Add a Yoke?

Yes. A smooth fitted yoke can keep the fullness away from the waist and upper hips.

Use an existing yoke skirt pattern that fits you well, then replace the lower skirt pieces with the bubble construction.

Gather the upper edge of the bubble skirt to the lower edge of the yoke.

This is an excellent option when you enjoy the rounded hem but prefer a smoother silhouette across the stomach.

Styling a Bubble Hem Skirt

The easiest way to style a voluminous skirt is to keep the upper half relatively simple.

Try:

• A fitted T-shirt tucked into the waistband
• A fine knitted top
• A cropped cardigan
• A simple button-front shirt
• A close-fitting tank
• A short denim jacket
• A fitted waistcoat
• A plain sweatshirt with a mini bubble skirt
• Flat sandals or sneakers
• Ankle boots with a knee-length version

For a softer mature style, try a knee-length bubble skirt in black, navy, olive or chocolate with a fine knit top and simple flats.

The bubble hem does not have to arrive in hot pink taffeta accompanied by a dramatic soundtrack.

Common Bubble Skirt Problems

The Skirt Looks Too Puffy Around the Hips

The outer skirt may contain too much width.

Reduce the fullness multiplier, use a drapier fabric or add a smooth upper yoke.

Concentrating more gathering towards the lower hem rather than the waist can also help.

The Bubble Hem Is Uneven

The lower gathers may not be distributed evenly, or the lining may be twisted.

Hang the skirt and redistribute the fabric around the lower seam.

Check that the lining side seams sit directly beneath the outer side seams.

The Lining Hangs Below the Outer Skirt

The lining may be too long, or the outer fabric may not contain enough extra length to roll underneath.

Shorten the lining from the waist edge before attaching the waistband.

Do not trim the lower joined seam unless you intend to undo and reconstruct it.

The Hem Seam Rolls to the Outside

Press the seam allowance towards the lining.

Understitch the lining close to the lower seam if the fabric allows you to reach it comfortably before turning the skirt.

A slightly shorter lining also helps pull the seam towards the inside.

The Waist Is Too Bulky

The upper edge may contain too much gathering, or the fabric may be too heavy.

Reduce the outer width, use lighter lining and press the gathers flat before attaching the waistband.

A yoke is another good solution.

The Elastic Twists

Make sure the casing is only slightly wider than the elastic.

Anchor the elastic by stitching vertically through the waistband at the side seams.

The Pockets Pull the Skirt Down

The pocket bags may be too heavy or unsupported.

Use lightweight pocket fabric and anchor the upper pocket bags into the waistband seam.

Keep the contents light.

Adapting an Existing Skirt Pattern

You can use an existing elastic-waist gathered-skirt pattern as the starting point.

Our simple gathered-skirt tutorial is useful for understanding the basic rectangular construction.

To turn a gathered skirt into a bubble skirt:

1. Lengthen the outer skirt by 15–25 cm.
2. Cut a shorter lining.
3. Make the outer skirt wider than the lining.
4. Gather the outer lower edge to the lining.
5. Join the two upper edges.
6. Finish the waist as directed by the original pattern.

There is also an older bubble-skirt refashion showing how an existing lined skirt can be adapted.

Washing and Caring for the Finished Skirt

Follow the care requirements of the most delicate fabric used.

When both fabrics are washable:

• Wash on a gentle cycle
• Use cool water
• Place the skirt inside a wash bag
• Avoid overloading the machine
• Hang or lay flat to dry
• Reshape the bubble while damp
• Press lightly without flattening the hem

When using taffeta, silk or specialist lining, dry cleaning may be the safer option.

A Skirt That Looks Far More Complicated Than It Is

The bubble hem looks clever because the construction is hidden inside.

From the outside, you see a smooth rounded edge with no ordinary hem stitching. Inside, it is simply a longer outer skirt gathered to a shorter lining.

Once you understand that relationship, you can adjust the same basic method to create a dramatic puffball mini, a soft knee-length skirt or a relaxed midi with just a hint of volume.

Make the first version in an inexpensive cotton poplin and keep the fullness moderate. Once you know how the shape sits on your body, you can confidently reach for the special fabric.

Or the piece of crisp floral cotton that has been waiting in the stash for twelve years because it was apparently “too good to cut.”