Patterns, Techniques, Articles, Blogs, and other resources to learn how to sew
An from StraightGrain shares a tutorial over at Sew, Mama, Sew! showing how to make a little girl’s bubble skirt. She includes a pattern for cutting the lining, with sizes based on child’s hip measurements. Get the how-to.
[photo from StraightGrain]
If there’s one topic that makes sewists uncomfortable faster than sewing zippers, it’s pricing. Not how to sew the item — but how much to charge for it once it’s finished.
Most people don’t struggle with making handmade items. They struggle with putting a price on their time, skill, and effort without feeling awkward, guilty, or worried they’ll scare buyers away.
If you’ve ever thought:
“I’m not good enough to charge that much,”
“People won’t pay handmade prices,”
or “I’ll just price it low until I get better,”
you’re not alone. But you’re also not doing yourself any favours.
Let’s talk about how to price handmade sewing items in a way that’s fair, realistic, and sustainable — without undervaluing yourself.
Underpricing doesn’t just affect your income. It affects your motivation, your confidence, and how seriously buyers take your work.
When handmade items are priced too low:
Ironically, pricing too low can make selling harder, not easier.
Handmade sewing items aren’t competing with mass-produced factory goods. They’re competing with thoughtfulness, quality, and care — and those have value.
One of the biggest pricing mistakes beginners make is charging only for materials.
Fabric, thread, zips, interfacing, labels, packaging — these are your base costs. But they’re only the starting point.
You also need to account for:
Even if you enjoy sewing, your time still counts.
A simple rule:
If someone else had to make this for you, what would you expect to pay them per hour?
Many sewists worry that because their items are “simple,” they don’t deserve higher prices.
Straight seams, basic construction, minimal shaping — these are often seen as beginner skills. But from a buyer’s perspective, simplicity is often a feature, not a flaw.
Simple items are:
A well-made tote bag, table runner, or pouch doesn’t lose value because it’s simple. It gains value because it works.
You don’t need complicated spreadsheets to price handmade sewing items.
A beginner-friendly formula looks like this:
Materials + (Hourly rate × Time) + Fees = Price
Your hourly rate doesn’t need to be high — but it does need to exist.
Even a modest rate acknowledges that your time matters.
And remember: pricing isn’t permanent. You’re allowed to adjust as you learn.
This mindset feels sensible, but it causes long-term problems.
When you price low “for now,” you:
Your skill will improve through repetition, not through underpricing.
Selling handmade items is a skill too — and pricing fairly is part of learning it.
Most buyers don’t analyse your stitching technique.
They’re paying for:
They want something useful, well made, and ready to use — not a bargain-bin price.
When you price confidently, buyers feel more confident too.
It’s smart to look at what others charge — but don’t use comparison as a weapon against yourself.
Instead of asking:
“Why are they charging more than me?”
Ask:
There is room for different price points. You don’t need to be the cheapest to be successful.
Selling handmade items should feel rewarding, not exhausting.
If your prices don’t allow you to:
…they’re too low.
A sustainable price keeps you sewing longer — and consistency is what builds sales over time.
Instead of asking:
“Is this worth what I’m charging?”
Ask:
“Would I be proud to sell this?”
If the item is:
Then it deserves a fair price.
You don’t need permission to charge what your work is worth. You just need to believe that your time, effort, and creativity matter.
Because they do.
Book Review – Sewing to Sell – The Beginner’s Guide to Starting a Craft Business
Selling your handmade items? Here’s how to figure a fair price.
I am trying to make simple flower girl dresses from a picture my daughter saw. She liked the tank top style, full bubble skirt with ribbon sash above the waist.
I found a pattern that is exactly what she liked except it does not have the bubble skirt.
I am assuming that the bubble skirt is created by cutting the lining a few inches shorter than the garment fabric, allowing a couple of extra inches of length and finishing the finishing the hemline before attaching the lining and garment fabric to the bodice of the dress.
I can just experiment, but do you have any suggestions?